FREE PATTERN: Cabled Legwarmers

Legwarmers. Remember when they used to be for 80’s fitness videos with those super high cut body suits?

Well they’re back. With a vengeance. Everyone from dancers to yogis to every day people want a pair.

I had looked around at patterns but, as is sometimes the case, I just didn’t find anything that I LOVED.

So I made my own pattern.

Legwarmers3

Because I had never made these before I didn’t know exactly how much yarn I would need. As a result I opted to make the cuffs a different colour so that I would be safe. I didn’t want to use a colour that would detract from this stunning hand dyed yarn so white it was.

Hand dyed yarn is from the amazingly talented Allison Barnes Collection.

Without further ado I present to you the Cabled Legwarmer.

Supplies needed:
Size 8 (5.0mm) DPNs OR Long Circular for Magic Loop (which is what I used)
Worsted Weight Yarn – Roughly 250yards
Cable needle or DPN to hold your yarn for cables

Legwarmer2

Cable Row:

Knit 17, Purl 1, CB6F, CB6B, Purl 1, Knit 17

CB6F = Place 3 stitches on your cable needle and hold to front. Knit next 3 stitches. Bring your cable needle back and knit the 3 stitches off your cable needle.
CB6B = Place 3 stitches on your cable needle and hold to back. Knit next 3 stitches. Bring your cable needle back and knit the 3 stitches off your cable needle.

Legwarmers4

Cast on 48 stitches.

If you’re using DPNs, arrange on 3 needles. If you’re using Magic Loop, split into 2 groups.

Rows 1-15: Rib k2, p2 around

Body of Legwarmers:

If you are changing colours now is the time.

Row 1: K17, P1, K12, P1, K17
Row 2: Repeat Row 1
Row 3: Repeat Row 1
Row 4: Repeat Row 1
Row 5: Cable Row (K17, P1, CB6F, CB6B, P1, K17
Row 6: Repeat Row 1
Row 7: Repeat Row 1
Row 8: Repeat Row 1
Row 9: Repeat Cable Row

Repeat rows 2-9 until desired length

I knit until my leg warmer reached around 15″ from the beginning of the ribbing.

If your ribbing is in a different colour, now is again the time to switch.

Rib k2, p2 for 7 rows or desired length.

Bind off in rib.

And voila! Beautiful ribbed leg warmers 🙂

Enjoy!

*Copyright Shanti Knits 2015. You are welcome to sell items made from this pattern but I would really appreciate pattern credit on etsy or wherever else you sell. You are NOT welcome to repost this pattern or claim it as your own.*

Legwarmers1

FREE PATTERN: Coffee Cup Cozy

I love coffee.

That’s actually probably an understatement.

I drink exactly one cup a day. On rare occasions I have a second cup. But my one cup a day makes me so happy. My favourites are Tofino Roast and North Mountain. One from each coast of Canada.

But I digress.

At Christmas I got a spindle. The beauty of fiber craft is that all the old is coming back to be new again. Drop spindles. Spinning wheels. What was one something only grandmothers did, children, teens and adults are picking up the craft.

I only learned to crochet in December 2012. I wanted to make a hat.

Since then I’ve made hundreds of items. I’ve picked up knitting. And spinning. I’ve become picky about yarns.

So I picked up this fleece from Fleece Artist at my Local Yarn Store – Pam’s Woolley Shoppe.

And then I spun it.

IMG_4356 IMG_4358

IMG_4362

Then my daughter and I wound it and I plied it (i.e. I respun it holding it double twisting the other way to make it into yarn.

I washed it, tied it, hung it out to dry.

IMG_4366 IMG_4367IMG_4369

So the yarn wasn’t perfect. But it was awesome. There were parts I wasn’t thrilled with. But overall.. overall I’m SO happy with it!

IMG_4374 IMG_4375 IMG_4376

Plus I love the pattern I made for the cup cozy so I decided to share it with you.

Waffled Cup Cozy

Materials Needed:
Size 13/9mm needles
Super Bulky Weight yarn – this takes very little yarn so scraps are great!

Using whatever method you prefer, cast on 9 stitches.

Row 1: K3, P3, K3
Row 2: P3, K3, P3
Row 3: K3, P3, K3
Row 4: P3, K3, P3

Row 5: P3, K3, P3
Row 6: K3, P3, K3
Row 7: P3, K3, P3
Row 8: K3, P3, K3

Repeat Rows 1-8 for 8”

Cast off.

Putting wrong sides together (whichever side you desire!), whip stitch closed.

Sew in all ends and voila! Cup cozy extraordinaire!

You are more than welcome to sell anything made from this pattern but I would love some credit! You are not permitted to pass this pattern off as your own.

FREE Pattern! Minecraft Fingerless Gloves

My son is obsessed with Minecraft. I really don’t understand the point of the game, but he seems to have fun playing it (in very limited quantities). As it’s still cold in the mornings here, I figured it was a good time to make him his own pair of Fingerless Gloves. I designed the pattern in the morning, knit them up while he was at school, and presented them to him when he got home. To say that he was happy is a gross understatement.

Of course, I had to share the pattern with you.

Fits roughly ages 5-12.

IMG_3846-edit

Supplies:

Yarn:

  • Green, Dark Brown, Light Brown and Black worsted weight yarn (I used Vanna’s choice but the sky’s the limit!)
  • Size 8 DPNs (5.0mm) and a darning needle

First mitt: The Dirt Block

IMG_3841-edit

Cast on 32 in light brown

Rows 1-12: K2 p2 ribbing
Row 13-14: knit around

Switch to Dark Brown

Row 15: knit

Start to Shape Thumb:

Row 16: K2, pm, kfb, k2, kfb, pm, k to end
Row 17: Knit
Row 18: K2, sm, kfb, k4, kfb, sm, k to end
Row 19: Knit
Row 20: K2, sm, kfb, k6, kfb, sm, k to end
Row 21: K2, slip 10 stitches onto scrap yarn, cast on 4 using back loop, k to end
Rows 22-28: Knit around

Starting colorwork: (switching to green as necessary)

dirtblock

Rows 29-33 as above (you will repeat the colorwork twice)

Rows 34-35: K2, p2 around

Bind off and weave in ends.

Second Mitt: The Creeper

IMG_3845-edit

Using Green, Cast on 32

Rows 1-12: K2 p2 around
Rows 13-15: K around

Start shaping thumb

Row 16: K2, pm, kfb, k2, kfb, pm, k to end
Row 17: K around
Row 18: K2, sm, kfb, k4, kfb, sm, k to end
Row 19: K around
Row 20: K2, sm, kfb, k6, kfb, sm, k to end
Row 21: K2, slip 10 stitches onto scrap yarn, cast on 4 using back loop, k to end (this is the first row of the colorwork)

Continuing colorwork as below:

creeper

Row 22-32 K8, proceed with colorwork as above, k to end for next 11 rows

Rows 33-34: K2, P2 around

Bind off and weave in ends.

Thumbs:

Creeper mitt use green; dirt block use dark brown.

Pick up 10 stitches from scrap yarn and as many stitches as you want from the other half of the mitt.

Row 1: Decrease stitches as you want until you have 12 stitch on your needle.

Row 2: Knit

Row 3: K1P1 around

Bind off loosely.

Happy boy 🙂

IMG_3848-edit

Yoda Hat Pattern

I had really wanted to make my little man a yoda hat. Mostly because he kept asking me for one. I searched and search and although there are some fantastic patterns out there, I just didn’t find one that I liked. So I made my own. And I’m SUPER happy with how it turned out. I’m all for making my patterns free so here we go!

This hat in specific fits roughly a 5-10 year old but you can use the ears on any size hat!

FullSizeRender (1)

Materials Needed:
Bulky weight yarn (number 5) – About 140-150 yards.
J (6.0) hook
Needle

Directions:

Hat:
Magic Ring – make 7 hdc in magic ring (7)
(*If you don’t know how to make a magic ring, then ch 2 and hdc 7 in the 2nd chain from hook.)
Join with a ss.
At the beginning of every row I ch2 and start my first stitch in the same stitch as the ch2. At the end of every row I slip stitch to the first stitch. This creates an invisible seam – or more invisible than other ways anyway!
Row 2: ch 2, 2hdc in each stitch (14)
Row 3: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next stitch*. Repeat from * to * around. (21)
Row 4: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 2 stitches*. Repeat from * to * around (28)
Row 5: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 3 stitches*. Repeat from * to * around (35)
Row 6: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 4 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around (42)
Row 7: ch 2, *2 hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 5 stitches.* Repeat from * to * around (49)
Row 8-16: ch 2, hdc around (49)
Row 17: ch 1, sc around (49)
Fasten off and weave in ends.

Ears (make 4):

FullSizeRender

sc dec = sc decrease – insert hook into first stitch, pull yarn through, insert hook into second stitch, pull yarn through, yarn over and pull through all 3 stitches.
I ch 1 at the beginning of each row but it does not count as the first stitch.
Ch 8
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each across (7)
Row 2: sc across (7)
Row 3: sc in first 3, 2sc in next, sc in last 3 (8)
Row 4: sc in first 4, 2sc in next, sc in last 3 (9)
Row 5-7: sc across (9)
Row 8: sc in first, sc dec, sc across (8)
Row 9: sc across (8)
Row 10: sc in first, sc dec, sc across (7)
Row 11: sc in first, sc dec, sc across (6)
Row 12: sc in first, sc dec, sc across (5)
Row 13: sc in first, sc dec, sc across (4)
Row 14: sc in first, sc dec, sc across (3)
Row 15: sc in first, sc dec(2)
Row 16: sc dec (1)

Finish off.

Take 2 ears and place them back to back. Starting at the bottom right corner, sc all the way around the ear making sure you are going through both ears. This makes the ears thicker and sturdier so that they don’t flop all over the place.

Once you get to the bottom left corner, leave a long tail (about a foot) to use to sew on to hat.

Repeat with the other 2 ears.

Place the ears on each side (I sewed on my ears between rows 8-13) and sew on to hat. Feel free to put a bit of a curve into the ears.

Sew in all the ends and voila! Yoda!

Please feel free to sell anything made from this pattern but please DO NOT sell the pattern as your own or copy it unless you have written permission from me. If you are selling on etsy or somewhere else, I would love a link back to my pattern.

Don’t hesitate to ask me any questions or let me know if something isn’t clear!

Happy hooking!

IMG_2689

fancy everyday beanie

Well let’s be honest. I’m pretty brutal at posting but I have a new post and a new pattern for you!

The Fancy Everyday Beanie is a quick and easy crochet and looks super awesome!

photo 6

Materials:
Worsted weight yarn
I hook (5.5)

Notes:

I work in the round joining each round to the next with a slip stitch. I chain 2 at the beginning and hdc in the same stitch. This creates a bit of a hidden seam.

Directions:

Magic Circle 8 hdc
Row 2: 2hdc in each stitch (16)
Row 3: *2hdc in first stitch, hdc in next*, repeat from * to * around (24)
Row 4: *2hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 2*, repeat from * to * around (32)
Row 5: *2hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 3*, repeat from * to * around (40)
Row 6: *2hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 4*, repeat from * to * around (48)
Row 7: *2hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 5*, repeat from * to * around (56)
Row 8: *2hdc in first stitch, hdc in next 6*, repeat from * to * around (64)
Row 9-12: hdc around (64)
Row 13: ch 3, dc in same stitch. *skip 2, in next stitch 2dc, ch1, 2dc*, repeat around until 3 stitches left. IN last stitch 2dc ch 2, slip stitch to 3rd chain in starting.
Row 14: hdc around (64) *Note that in order to get 64 around you basically need to not hdc in the chains.
Row 15: Repeat row 13.
Row 16: hdc around (64)
Row 17-19: sc around (64)

Feel free to add a flower, or a skull, or some other funky addition to the hat!

photo 4photo 5